I think the Portuguese route was 15 days instead of six weeks. You can say that is a challenge, but it’s not six weeks, which is a real commitment. And then also it’s much quieter. So, the first out of the 15 days, 11 days were quiet. Then, if you do the last 100km of the Camino, you get the stamp, the Compostella, so you have to do 100km. The last 100km is really busy, but other than that, it was pretty quiet. So, depending on which route you take, it’s a bigger commitment.
Jo Yes, so this is a really big tip. I had never done multi-day walking, certainly not solo, so I did all three of these solo. I had never done that alone. It was five days for the Cuthberts and six days for the Canterbury Pilgrimage, the Pilgrim’s Way. They were my first trial runs, but I also walked a lot anyway around Bath, near where you guys live – there are some hills. So, doing some hills is good, but it’s nothing major in terms of walking. If you can walk, let’s say between 8km and 20km wearing your gear and walking tired and that kind of thing, that helps.
One big thing is that I do weight training and have done that for a while, because one of the biggest issues on the Camino that I saw, was people leaving because of their knees. There are two major things with the knees. One – and you guys are skiers, it’s probably similar – is that you need to do training for your muscles, the supporting muscles around your knees, but also using poles, again a bit like skiing. If you use walking poles, that’s going to support your knees. So that would be my biggest thing. Although you don’t have to be a super athlete. You certainly need to walk and train. Otherwise, you’ll have a miserable time. You know what I mean?
Peter Of course. Presumably, you don’t want to take the whole kitchen sink with you?
Jo Yes, that would be another tip. Well, there are two things on the Camino: I think people have a romantic idea, I certainly did, but it is an industry. So if you want your bags ported from one place to the next, you can do that. I met quite a lot of people in their seventies who had their bags moved. Also, there’s a saying: Your Camino, your way.
There is nothing wrong with having your bag moved from accommodation every night. I decided that I wanted to carry my bag on every single pilgrimage. It was part of my ‘rules,’ in inverted commas, for myself. I walked every step as well. You can get a taxi.
Certainly, with any walk, you should carry two litres of water. The death of Michael Moseley, I think, is probably the biggest thing: a health guy who didn’t carry water on a hot day. So, definitely do that, but you can buy stuff along the route. One thing is Portugal and Spain are not particularly good for vegetarians. Definitely not great for vegans. It’s mainly jamon (ham) sandwiches along the route. So, if you have specific dietary requirements, you would have to plan a bit more.
Then there are these steeper wooded sections, as I mentioned. There are certainly no mountains on that route. Whereas if you do the Francés from Saint Jean Pied de Port, you go over the Pyrenees. So this route is much better for flat; you don’t need walking boots on this route. Shoes are fine, even the fell-running trainers. I wish I’d even gone one step down. There are not really any places where it’s muddy or anything like that. You’re not walking on roads; sometimes you are, but mostly on boardwalks or pathways. So I don’t go overboard on boots. For example, the St. Cuthbert’s Way in the north of England was a hardcore boot walk with more wilderness.
I went with Mac’s Adventure, they’re a great company that helps organise your own walking trips. I booked through them and what they did is they book the accommodation, so I knew where I was staying every night. They also have an app. Obviously, I took a guidebook, and I took maps, physical maps, and a guidebook, but I also had an app for Mac’s Adventure. Definitely get Roaming if that’s something you need. Then I could see where I was, but there was only once where I just headed off in slightly the wrong direction. It’s pretty hard to get lost on the Camino.
Felice So did you get lonely at all, as you were on your own?
Jo I’m an introvert, so I don’t really get lonely, but I also wanted to be solo in my accommodation. My book, Pilgrimage, is a bit of a midlife memoir, as you mentioned, and I was in peri-menopause at the time, so I wasn’t really sleeping anyway. The last thing I wanted was to be in a bunk room with people snoring, or disturbing people because I was getting up and down and wandering around at night.
So I booked through Mac’s Adventure, and they booked the accommodation. You can stay in hostels, and if you want company, then staying in a hostel in a more communal environment is probably a better idea. But then also when you walk out every day, depending on what time of the day you start – I’m more of an early morning person, so I would start quite early, and then you would walk past people going at different paces. Sometimes, you would fall into step with people, chat for a bit, walk along together, sometimes for just ten minutes, sometimes for a few hours.
Sometimes people would say, ‘Do you want to come and eat together, have lunch together?’ So I’d say it’s as communal as you want it to be. There were also lots of groups, different groups from churches or different groups of people who wanted to do it for different reasons. I think depending on who you are and why you’re doing it, you can choose how friendly you want it to be.
Jo Not really on the Camino because I knew how it felt. So, for my blisters, for example, I know that I need to take the pain, tape them up, and I said, ‘I can make it.’ So I know I can walk through pain. On the St. Cuthbert’s Way, I think that was when I really, really struggled. I was very miserable, and I was a bit lonely. It was pouring with rain; I was in the middle of nowhere. There wasn’t even a sheep in sight. It was very hard. So I feel like when I did the Camino, I had done hard. And so I was like, ‘No, I’m going to finish.’ Also, I had that sense of the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela; you walk into the square, take your selfie with the cathedral, and you’re like, ‘This is the end.’
I feel it’s a sort of metaphor for life challenges in that once you are going to do this, you take day after day, and you just head in that direction, and then you’re going to make it. So on the Camino, ‘No,’ I said, ‘I am not stopping. I am going to achieve this goal.’ And again, circling back to Memento Mori, remember you will die.
I was like, ‘I am so privileged that I get to walk this now. What if I can’t walk it next year? What if I never get to achieve that goal?’ That just kept driving me forward. If you are feeling like that, people will walk past you, and everyone will be so supportive. Sometimes, people will share poles with people who are suffering, which is why I recommend poles.
People say, ‘Oh, I don’t need walking poles because I’m strong.’ And I say, ‘Say that to your knees when you’re on day nine, walking steep downhill on slippery, stony ground in the rain.’ Just don’t take someone else’s poles; take your own.
Jo Yes, pilgrimages, in general, start and finish in significant cultural hubs. I highly recommend starting in Porto, which is a wonderful city, amazing wine, obviously. So have your Douro red wine before you leave, and have a couple of days in Porto if you’re just starting out on that route.
Then, along the way, there are some small towns and bigger cities, and then, obviously, Santiago de Compostela is a big city. So you are going from urban spaces, then out into the beaches, countryside, and then back into towns again. So that’s a sort of mixed blessing because you get your creature comforts, you can get your coffee.
I had a lot of espressos on the route. You can get the lovely Portuguese croissant with jam on it. Yum. You can get the pastel de nata – custard tarts for people who don’t know. That’s a benefit.
Peter Now, we’ve talked a lot about the physical side. What about the spiritual side of this? You, Jo, were in a pretty bad place when you first thought about doing a pilgrimage. Tell us a bit about that. Presumably, it’s the journey, not the arrival, that it’s all about?
Jo So, I think when you’re feeling untethered, as we all did during COVID, as it went on, it was like, ‘Is life ever going to come back?’ Also, hormonally, I was depressed, and it was all pretty miserable. What is wonderful about pilgrimage from a practical and spiritual point of view is you are just going, you have boundaries in your life. And if you take one step after another, you’re going to get from A to B. And when life feels out of control, if you know that all you have to do is get up and walk and then go back to sleep again and eat, whatever, it’s just so simple. So, from a physical point of view, it’s also a kind of meditation.
So even if you’re not someone who prays, then walking can get your body into a certain state. Then, your mind is almost free to think. So, I also consider myself a spiritual person in that I do think about the deeper aspects of life, and I write that into many of my books, fiction and nonfiction. So, I took myself a list of questions to take on the pilgrimage. Every day I would really think about these questions. One of the things is the memento mori; remember, you will die, so I would look on the route for things that were both temporary and things that were stable as well. So some of these ancient buildings, you’re like, ‘OK, that’s been here for so long, and that’s anchoring me.’ Yet one of the wonderful things is having a beer and a tapas, and you’d be like, ‘OK, I’m just going to enjoy the moment, the moments of drinking this cold beer after my hot walk.’ That is a temporal pleasure, but all the better for enjoying it.
Felice What about the people you met along the way? Did you talk to people, or just keep to yourself mainly?
Jo: When I felt like talking, I did talk to people, especially sometimes when you’re feeling good and striding out. Then you pass someone who is clearly not having a good time, and you might slow down.
I remember one guy on the dunes I was walking, and walking on dunes is quite hard work, to be fair. He was struggling a bit, and I stopped to talk to him. An older guy, Irish. I met so many Irish people, but they weren’t Catholic; none of them were Catholic. He said, ‘I was brought up Catholic, and I want to do the pilgrimage, but I’m not religious.’ I met a lot of older Catholics who were doing it. Some people have done each route – so they do all the different routes of the Camino. I think that was interesting. So I did talk to people. I met all kinds of different people and nationalities and people are always asking where you’re from and why you’re walking the Camino, and reflecting on that.
Tips about where to find coffee were always good. So I think you can be as friendly as you want to be. But also ask for help if you are walking alone. Obviously, as a woman walking alone, I was careful not to walk in the dark. I was careful with making sure I knew where I was going. That’s another reason I wanted to book accommodation. Some people just walk and then find somewhere to sleep, and I’m like, ‘Nope, not doing that.’ There are things you can put in to keep you safe, but also then ask people if you are worried about anything or struggling.
During all of the pilgrimages, I take tons of photos. So, photos both for social media, selfies and beautiful shots of things, but also things for the writing later. Pictures of flowers and pictures of what you ate and pictures of my injuries, which I haven’t shared, but it reminded me what day I got this and that and the other, pictures of my gear, pictures that are more practical for writing things up later. I also had an app on my phone. I just use the Things app, but you can use Notes or whatever. I would record brief thoughts or type brief thoughts during the day, ‘Heard a bird at this point,’ just to keep it in mind.
When I got in at the end of the day, I was knackered. So every morning I would wake up and I would write up my notes from the day before, and then I would also take pictures of those notes, and so they would sync to the Cloud. So, just in case that notebook got lost or whatever, I would actually have my notes along the way. Then when I got home, for all of them, I did day-by-day articles, like blog posts on my site, www.booksandtravel.page. So every single day is recorded that I did soon after, because you know how quickly you forget these things when you return.
Some people don’t book accommodation, in order to take time off. Maybe I didn’t take any rest days, but some people take rest days in the middle to recover and then carry on. If you’re doing some of the longer routes, I think that’s probably more appropriate.
Jo I think over the whole thing, it became a sense of transformation in that I came home, which is interesting, I know you’re both travellers. I lived in a lot of different places as a child, and I never really felt like I had a home. It was always this really odd idea for me. Then when I came back from the Camino, it was like something shifted in me. I came home to my husband, and I was like, ‘I feel I’ve come home now.’ I feel not that my journeying is done or anything like that, but it almost closed some kind of circle in me that said I always have to be moving, I always have to be walking. But part of pilgrimage is this idea of return when you then think about the effect on your life.
This might seem small to some people, but it’s big to me: we adopted two cats. When you commit, obviously, to an animal, then you’re committing for time, and you want stability for them. Obviously, children are a lot bigger commitment, but for us, having cats was something I just hadn’t done for a really long time because I felt I wasn’t ready to settle. So, it did change something in me around that. Reflecting on something that I had thought when I was a teenager to come thirty years later to say, ‘I have fulfilled that goal,’ was also a really precious thing.
Jo So, obviously, you were very grateful for not having to walk every day, not having to carry your pack. I think very much taking some time in Santiago de Compostela. Some people were walking in and then leaving that same day, whereas I stayed a couple of nights. One, obviously, then you can recover a bit, but two, it helps you with that transition. So there’s a pilgrim’s mass in the cathedral every single day. I actually went to that. There’s something about it, and they read out all the nationalities of the people who arrived that day. You can also get your Compostela, which is the certificate of how far you’ve travelled. You obviously look around the city, settle a bit before coming home.
Once I got home, it was very much writing it up. Going through my notes, because I’m sure, as you talked about having a notebook, when you revisit your notes, you realise things that you felt at the time that now you’ve almost forgotten. So pain, for example, is one of these transitory things, hopefully, for people. The transitory pain of blisters, when you’re going through it at the time, can feel very, very sharp and very, very difficult, and when you look back later, you’re like, ‘OK, and now I can’t feel it. My toes are completely fine.’ It’s learning those lessons and processing those lessons after the facts.
I guess the practical tip for people is don’t just jump straight back into your job the day after you get back from a big trip. Try and schedule some extra time to process a bit before you go back into your normal life.
That was a really big thing for me. I actually did a navigation course before I went because I was worried about getting lost. I was worried about not being able to read a map properly. And so that would be another tip for people. ‘Look, you can learn all this stuff. There’s nothing magical about deciding to do a multi-day walk or whatever your goal is; whatever trip you’re planning, you can do it. You just need to plan, and it might take you some time to train for it and get everything in place, but it’s definitely possible.’
Jo Yes, and that’s why I wanted to come back to the St. Cuthbert’s Way, because that is from Melrose in Scotland, so this is up in the Borders, and then to Lindisfarne, Holy Island. Probably one of the most spiritual moments of my life was walking across the sands to Lindisfarne. I would absolutely recommend that to people. But yes, that was October in Northumberland. It was freezing; I was freezing. It was raining. It was difficult. I was in pain. That was such a hard walk – super proud of it.
The Pilgrim’s Way from Southwark in London to Canterbury is not very wilderness. It is more nature than the Camino route I did, but each one is different and that would be another tip. So if you want to go on pilgrimage, then have a think about which pilgrimage, which route, what time of year. Then again, if you want to do it on your own, if you want your luggage taken. There are lots of questions that will help you have the best experience that you can.
Peter …and the way in which you meet other people. I was very interested in the little bit about where you left Southwark, and I think you strayed into a housing estate by mistake and met a young girl.
Jo So that day, as you say, so Southwark in London, if people don’t know, this is real urban streets. This is walking in the outskirts of London housing estates. It’s a fascinating route, too, incredibly historical. I walked through, I met this young girl or teenager, and she looked at me like, ‘What are you doing walking through my estate carrying this backpack?’ And she said, ‘Oh, what are you doing?’ So I talked to her, and she said, ‘Oh, I hardly even walk up the stairs in my house.’
It was so interesting because we always think about long-distance walking, like people out in the wilderness, but actually striding through this housing estate, I maybe had more impact on someone’s life. It gives you a new perspective because we often don’t walk through these areas. Very near, there was a wild orchard, and in England, we have a lot of wild orchards. That land was common ground for centuries and people are allowed to take the apples from this common ground. Then people go and coppice them, and they do all this stuff. I was like, ‘Wow, this is really interesting.’ Probably, this girl didn’t even know the history of where she was. So that was pretty funny.
Felice That’s right. I wrote a book about my family. Having always been a travel writer, there is obviously travel in the book. I went to all the places to research it. But I wrote a book about my grandmother who escaped the Nazis and came to Britain.
Jo Yes, I’m an independent author. Pilgrimage is available in all the usual places, but also I’ve got loads of resources on my site, www.booksandtravel.page. There’s a Pilgrimage Resource Site there with loads of stuff, also links to the book. I also narrate the audiobook. So people, if people like audio, then you might like that. There’s also my Books and Travel podcast, which might interest people. I also have lots of fiction at www.jfpenn.com and in all the usual places.
© Action Packed Travel
- Join over a hundred thousand podcasters already using Buzzsprout to get their message out to the world.
- Following the link lets Buzzsprout know we sent you, gets you a $20 Amazon gift card if you sign up for a paid plan, and helps support our show.